Post by Ryan Thompson on Mar 3, 2016 2:32:06 GMT
THIS IS AN INCOMPLETE WORK IN PROGRESS.
These are my instructions on leveling the G2s. This is not the only way to approach the problem but it worked for me. All the steps 1-XXX are optional, but recommended for best chance of success.
Pre-leveling: Remove the springs supporting the print bed and use metal stand-offs instead. This keeps the bed from moving around during printing. I noticed at times I would rest my hand on the bed while I was adjusting for leveling, and this would depress the bed slightly on the springs, making it difficult to get an accurate measurement.
[Add photo here]
Pre-leveling: Get a good piece of flat glass on top of your aluminum bed. The bed is not perfectly flat in many cases. Use a good straight edge to check.
Pre-leveling: Check that all your diagonal rods are the exact same length. Fix or replace them if they are not. Make sure there is no play (movement) at the rod ends. Use printed or purchased shims, or rubber bands to eliminate play.
Pre-leveling: Make sure the screws which will contact the endstop switches are screwed in enough that there is no play. They should all be screwed in approximately the same amount.
Pre-leveling: Get the 1.10rc3 firmware that has been linked from the Google group. This has some additional settings added which are necessary for the final adjustments.
Pre-leveling: Double-check that your drive pulleys are tightened down on the stepper motor axles. (I wasted a lot of time because one of mine was loose)
Pre-leveling: If you have dual-extruder, remove or raise one of the nozzles or hotends to keep it out of the way.
Measurement method:
All the measurements in the table below are done using Jason McMullan's "calibration item" idea from reprap.org/wiki/Delta_Rostock_mini_G2s#Manual_Calibration_Procedure: He suggests using a domino, allen wrench, or something else with a consistent height that will be easy to use for measurement. I used one of my kids' Lego pieces with a flat top. Legos are manufactured to tight specs. This method is less "subjective" than the paper test and you avoid running your nozzle into the bed too many times. I will call it a "lego" in all the directions below, but you can use whatever item you like, as long as you use the same item and it cannot be deformed during the process of leveling.
[ADD photo of lego]
During the leveling process, it doesn't matter if the z height (MANUAL_Z_HOME_POSITION) is correct, we just want to get to the same measurement at all points. At that point you can worry about the Z height. For simplicity you do want to have the z height close to correct in firmware.
To measure the nozzle height at given coordinates, first move the print head to that X/Y position, with the Z positioned at Z=5mm, or at a Z position that will allow the lego to easily slide under the nozzle without touching it. Using Repetier, lower the hotend by 1mm increments and try sliding the lego under again. Once the lego cannot pass under the nozzle, start raising the hotend by 0.1mm increments until you can slide the lego under the nozzle without touching it at all. The Z coordinate when this occurs is the one you want to record in your log.
[Make a video of this step]
I recommend using 7 points on the bed for leveling. These should be 3 points very close to each of the X,Y,Z towers, 3 points along the outside of the bed between the towers (near the bed screws), and the center of the bed.
I called the tower points, X, Y, and Z. I called the outside points X', Y', and Z' (X' is the bed position directly opposite the X tower, etc.)
I used these points:
[ADD drawing of points here]
The latest version of Repetier host allows you to configure 5 "scripts"
These are my instructions on leveling the G2s. This is not the only way to approach the problem but it worked for me. All the steps 1-XXX are optional, but recommended for best chance of success.
Pre-leveling: Remove the springs supporting the print bed and use metal stand-offs instead. This keeps the bed from moving around during printing. I noticed at times I would rest my hand on the bed while I was adjusting for leveling, and this would depress the bed slightly on the springs, making it difficult to get an accurate measurement.
[Add photo here]
Pre-leveling: Get a good piece of flat glass on top of your aluminum bed. The bed is not perfectly flat in many cases. Use a good straight edge to check.
Pre-leveling: Check that all your diagonal rods are the exact same length. Fix or replace them if they are not. Make sure there is no play (movement) at the rod ends. Use printed or purchased shims, or rubber bands to eliminate play.
Pre-leveling: Make sure the screws which will contact the endstop switches are screwed in enough that there is no play. They should all be screwed in approximately the same amount.
Pre-leveling: Get the 1.10rc3 firmware that has been linked from the Google group. This has some additional settings added which are necessary for the final adjustments.
Pre-leveling: Double-check that your drive pulleys are tightened down on the stepper motor axles. (I wasted a lot of time because one of mine was loose)
Pre-leveling: If you have dual-extruder, remove or raise one of the nozzles or hotends to keep it out of the way.
Measurement method:
All the measurements in the table below are done using Jason McMullan's "calibration item" idea from reprap.org/wiki/Delta_Rostock_mini_G2s#Manual_Calibration_Procedure: He suggests using a domino, allen wrench, or something else with a consistent height that will be easy to use for measurement. I used one of my kids' Lego pieces with a flat top. Legos are manufactured to tight specs. This method is less "subjective" than the paper test and you avoid running your nozzle into the bed too many times. I will call it a "lego" in all the directions below, but you can use whatever item you like, as long as you use the same item and it cannot be deformed during the process of leveling.
[ADD photo of lego]
During the leveling process, it doesn't matter if the z height (MANUAL_Z_HOME_POSITION) is correct, we just want to get to the same measurement at all points. At that point you can worry about the Z height. For simplicity you do want to have the z height close to correct in firmware.
To measure the nozzle height at given coordinates, first move the print head to that X/Y position, with the Z positioned at Z=5mm, or at a Z position that will allow the lego to easily slide under the nozzle without touching it. Using Repetier, lower the hotend by 1mm increments and try sliding the lego under again. Once the lego cannot pass under the nozzle, start raising the hotend by 0.1mm increments until you can slide the lego under the nozzle without touching it at all. The Z coordinate when this occurs is the one you want to record in your log.
[Make a video of this step]
I recommend using 7 points on the bed for leveling. These should be 3 points very close to each of the X,Y,Z towers, 3 points along the outside of the bed between the towers (near the bed screws), and the center of the bed.
I called the tower points, X, Y, and Z. I called the outside points X', Y', and Z' (X' is the bed position directly opposite the X tower, etc.)
I used these points:
| Point | X coordinate | Y coordinate |
| X tower | -63 | -39 |
| Y tower | 64 | -33 |
| Z tower | 0 | 70 |
| X' screw | 60 | 50 |
| Y' screw | -60 | 50 |
| Z' screw | 0 | -70 |
| Center | 0 | 0 |
[ADD drawing of points here]
The latest version of Repetier host allows you to configure 5 "scripts"
